# Dear Vegan Traveller

> Letters from vegans in Tokyo, written as pixel-art postcards by two kappas, Beji and Midorii (with Cedric, the human who checks every place). Practical help for vegan travellers in Japan: Japanese food label words, traps beyond the label, and vegan places checked on the ground in Tokyo. Information is general guidance, not a vegan certification: recipes change, always read the label.

## Japanese food label words for vegans

Each word has a verdict: AVOID (Not vegan. If you see it, put it back.), CHECK (Depends on the word next to it. Read on before you buy.), OK (Good sign: usually fine for vegans.).

### Avoid
- [豚 (buta): Pork](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/buta): On its own 豚 reads “buta”, but in compound words it becomes “ton”: とんかつ, 豚骨, 豚汁. The miso soup that comes with a set meal is sometimes 豚汁.
- [牛 (gyu): Beef](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/gyu): 牛乳 (gyunyu) is cow's milk: dairy, not beef, but still not vegan. And 牛蒡 (gobo, burdock root) is a vegetable, though it's usually written ごぼう.
- [鶏 (tori): Chicken](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/tori): 鶏ガラスープの素 (chicken stock powder) is the base of a lot of Chinese-style dishes, even plain vegetable ones. And 鶏卵 is egg, not chicken meat.
- [かつお節 (katsuobushi): Bonito flakes](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/katsuobushi): It's the most common hidden fish in Japan. Ordinary soy sauce (醤油) is fine; 'dashi soy sauce' isn't.
- [煮干し (niboshi): Dried sardines](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/niboshi): A ramen shop that has a vegan ramen may use the same pot for both. Ask whether the broth is separate.
- [あごだし (agodashi): Flying fish stock](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/ago-dashi): It's often sold as healthy or “additive-free” (無添加). 無添加 only means no added chemicals, not no fish.
- [かつお梅 (katsuo ume): Bonito plum](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/ume-katsuo): A “plum” onigiri isn't automatically vegan: the filling is sometimes seasoned plum with bonito. Look for かつお in the list.
- [魚介類 (gyokairui): Fish and seafood](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/gyokairui): Fish isn't one of the allergens Japan requires on labels. It may be in the product without appearing in the allergen line.
- [しらす (shirasu): Whitebait](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/shirasu): Tiny and easy to miss: they look like white sprinkles. じゃこ in a dish name means little fish.
- [かまぼこ (kamaboko): Fish cake](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/kamaboko): Fish in disguise: カニカマ looks like crab, ちくわ looks like a plain tube.
- [えび・かに (ebi, kani): Shrimp and crab](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/ebi-kani): Unlike fish, shrimp and crab are mandatory allergens: if they're in it, the allergen line has to mention them.
- [オイスターソース (oisuta sosu): Oyster sauce](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/oyster-sauce): かき also means persimmon (柿). The kanji tells them apart: 牡蠣 is the oyster, 柿 is the fruit.
- [卵 (tamago): Egg](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/tamago): 卵白 (egg white) slips into a lot of bread and fish cakes. Egg is a mandatory allergen, so check the allergen line too.
- [天かす (tenkasu): Tempura crumbs](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/tenkasu): Some are egg-free, but at a self-service topping bowl there's no way to know. Treat them as egg.
- [乳 (nyu): Milk](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/nyu): 乳化剤 (emulsifier) and 乳酸 (lactic acid) contain the same kanji but aren't milk. Their source isn't stated, though: look for 乳成分 in the allergen line.
- [カゼイン (kazein): Casein and rennet](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/casein): “Non-dairy” isn't a vegan promise: casein is milk protein. 乳化剤 (emulsifier) isn't milk, but the label doesn't say what it's made from.
- [ゼラチン (zerachin): Gelatine](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/gelatine): Gelatine isn't a mandatory allergen. Read the full list. Jellies made with 寒天 (kanten, agar) are plant-based.
- [はちみつ (hachimitsu): Honey](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/hachimitsu): It often only appears in the product name, for example ハニートースト (honey toast).
- [動物油脂 (dobutsu yushi): Animal fat](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/dobutsu-yushi): Its opposite, 植物油脂 (shokubutsu yushi), means vegetable oil. The first two kanji make all the difference: 動物 animal, 植物 plant.
- [ラード・豚脂 (rado, tonshi): Lard](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/lard): In small restaurants, fried rice and stir-fries are often cooked in lard, even when there's no meat in the dish. Ask what oil they use: “何の油を使っていますか？” (nan no abura o tsukatte imasu ka?).
- [コチニール (kochiniru): Cochineal (red dye)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/cochineal): It's made from insects. Look for it in brackets, after 着色料 (colouring).

### Check
- [肉 (niku): Meat](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/niku): Read what comes before 肉. 大豆肉 and 大豆ミート (soy meat) are made from soybeans, so they can be fine. Without 大豆, 肉 means real meat. Either way, read the rest of the list: the sauce or stock may not be vegan.
- [エキス (ekisu): Extract](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/ekisu): The word alone tells you nothing: read what comes just before エキス. It's often a tiny amount, low down the list.
- [だし (dashi): Stock](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/dashi): Plain “だし” on a menu usually means fish. Ask what it's made from: “だしは何ですか？” (dashi wa nan desu ka?).
- [めんつゆ (mentsuyu): Noodle sauce](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/mentsuyu): Most bottles are made with bonito. Some brands make a kelp-only version: look for 昆布 or 椎茸 and no かつお or さば. Plain 醤油 (soy sauce) is fine.
- [ふりかけ (furikake): Rice seasoning](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/furikake): Even flavours that look plain often add bonito extract or milk powder. The packet picture tells you a lot: egg, fish, cheese.
- [コンソメ (konsome): Consommé and bouillon](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/consomme): In Japan, コンソメ almost always means a meat stock. Only trust it when it's clearly vegetable (野菜).
- [マーガリン (magarin): Margarine and shortening](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/shortening): Margarine often has milk added: check the allergen line for 乳成分. 食用油脂 and 加工油脂 don't say whether the fat is plant or animal.
- [みりん・料理酒 (mirin, ryorishu): Mirin and cooking sake](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/mirin-sake): Rice-based, so usually fine. The risk is in blends that borrow the name (“mirin-style”, cooking sake with seasoning): read what's added.
- [一部に〜を含む (ichibu ni … o fukumu): Contains some …](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/allergen-line): Only 9 allergens have to be listed, and egg, milk, shrimp and crab are among them. Meat, fish and gelatine are optional, so a clean allergen line doesn't mean vegan.
- [不使用 (fushiyo): Free from](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/fushiyo): Free from egg and milk isn't free from everything: fish, honey or meat extract can still be in the list.
- [餅 (mochi): Rice cake](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/mochi): Mochi itself is just rice. Pink mochi and dango can be coloured with cochineal, a red dye made from insects: look for コチニール or カルミン in the list. Fillings are usually bean paste, but some sweets add cream, egg or gelatine: check the list.

### Good signs
- [動物性原材料不使用 (dobutsusei genzairyo fushiyo): No animal ingredients](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/dobutsusei-fushiyo): The strongest promise on a Japanese pack. A line like 本品製造工場では卵・乳成分を含む製品を生産しています only means the factory also handles egg or milk: it's about traces.
- [植物性 (shokubutsusei): Plant-derived](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/shokubutsusei): It can describe one ingredient, not the whole product: a 植物性乳酸菌 (plant lactic bacteria) drink can still contain milk. Read the whole list.
- [ヴィーガン認証 (viigan ninsho): Vegan certified](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/vegan-certified): Certified products are checked by a third party: the safest bet. ヴィーガン対応 on a menu is the shop's own word, so it's still worth asking about dashi.
- [豆腐 (tofu): Tofu](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/tofu): Plain tofu is vegan. Cold tofu in a restaurant often comes topped with bonito flakes, and seasoned tofu may contain dashi.
- [厚揚げ (atsuage): Thick fried tofu](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/atsuage): Plain atsuage is vegan, but simmered dishes (煮物) with it usually use dashi. がんもどき sometimes contains egg or shrimp: read the list.
- [油揚げ (aburaage): Fried tofu pouch](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/aburaage): The pouch is vegan, but it's usually simmered in a sweet broth that can contain bonito (inari, kitsune). Check the list or ask.
- [湯葉 (yuba): Tofu skin](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/yuba): Yuba itself is just the skin of soy milk. Restaurants often serve it with dashi or a soy-dashi sauce: ask about the broth.
- [豆乳 (tonyu): Soy milk](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/tonyu): Flavoured soy drinks are usually plant-based, but a few add milk or honey: read the list.
- [大豆ミート (daizu miito): Soy meat](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/daizu-miito): The soy meat is plant-based; the sauce or seasoning may not be. Read the rest of the list.
- [こんにゃく (konnyaku): Konjac](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/konnyaku): Konjac is a plant. In oden and sukiyaki it sits in a fish or meat broth.
- [寒天 (kanten): Agar](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/kanten): The plant-based gelatine: a jelly made with 寒天 or アガー is fine, one made with ゼラチン isn't.
- [葛 (kuzu): Kudzu starch](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/kuzu): Kudzu is a root starch. Thickened sauces (あんかけ) are often made with dashi, though.
- [昆布だし (konbu dashi): Kelp stock](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/konbu-dashi): Plant-based on its own, but 合わせだし (mixed stock) is kelp plus fish. Make sure 昆布 is the only stock.
- [椎茸だし (shiitake dashi): Shiitake stock](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/shiitake-dashi): Often paired with kelp for a fully plant-based dashi. Check that no かつお joins them.
- [植物油脂 (shokubutsu yushi): Vegetable oil](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/shokubutsu-yushi): The opposite of 動物油脂 (animal fat). If a list says 食用油脂 or 加工油脂 instead, the source isn't stated.
- [米粉 (komeko): Rice flour](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/komeko): Rice flour is plant-based, but rice-flour bread and cakes often add egg or milk.
- [ごま (goma): Sesame](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/goma): Sesame dressing (ごまドレッシング) often contains egg yolk: check the list.
- [海苔 (nori): Seaweed sheets](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/nori): Plain toasted nori is vegan. 味付け海苔 (seasoned) often contains bonito or fish extract.
- [わかめ (wakame): Wakame seaweed](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/wakame): Wakame is fine; the miso soup around it usually isn't (dashi).
- [ひじき (hijiki): Hijiki seaweed](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/hijiki): Simmered hijiki (ひじき煮) is a classic side dish, almost always made with dashi.
- [オーツミルク (otsu miruku): Oat milk](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/oat-milk): Plant-based. In a café, ask オーツミルクに変更できますか？ (Otsu miruku ni henko dekimasu ka?) to swap the milk.
- [アーモンドミルク (amondo miruku): Almond milk](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/almond-milk): Plant-based. For sweetened or flavoured versions, glance at the list.
- [乳化剤 (nyukazai): Emulsifier](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/nyukazai): Despite the 乳 kanji, it isn't milk. It's usually soy-based or synthetic; when it comes from egg, the allergen line names 卵.
- [乳酸 (nyusan): Lactic acid](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/nyusan): Lactic acid is made by fermentation, not from milk. 乳酸菌 (lactic bacteria) drinks and yoghurts are another story: many are dairy.
- [調味料（アミノ酸等） (chomiryo (aminosan to)): Seasoning (amino acids)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/aminosan): Flavour enhancers, usually made by fermentation. 核酸 (nucleotides) can come from fish as well, and the label doesn't say which.
- [酵母エキス (kobo ekisu): Yeast extract](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/kobo-ekisu): A savoury, plant-based flavour. Check the other エキス in the same list.
- [野菜エキス (yasai ekisu): Vegetable extract](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/yasai-ekisu): Plant-based, but it often sits next to a meat extract in the same list: read on.
- [増粘多糖類 (zonen tatorui): Thickeners](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/zonen-tatorui): Usually from plants, seaweed or fermentation. Gelatine is never hidden here: it's always named ゼラチン.
- [納豆 (natto): Natto](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/natto): The beans are vegan; the little sauce packet often contains かつおエキス. Use plain soy sauce instead.
- [味噌 (miso): Miso paste](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/miso): Miso paste is soybeans, salt and koji. Avoid packs marked だし入り, and remember the soup usually has dashi (see Heads-up).
- [梅干し (umeboshi): Pickled plum](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/umeboshi): Plain umeboshi is plum, salt and shiso. Seasoned ones can contain bonito or honey (see かつお梅).

## Heads-up: eating vegan in Japan beyond the label
- [The word “vegetarian” (ベジタリアン)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/vegetarian): In Japan “vegetarian” has no fixed meaning. A dish sold as ベジタリアン can still be made with fish stock, egg or dairy.
- [The word “vegan” (ヴィーガン / ビーガン)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/vegan): ヴィーガン and ビーガン are the same word written two ways. On a pack or a menu it's the best sign you'll find, but not a guarantee.
- [“Plant-based” (プラントベース)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/plant-based): プラントベース is a marketing word. It usually means the main ingredient is plants, not that nothing animal is inside.
- [The starter you didn't order (お通し)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/otoshi): In many izakaya a small dish arrives as soon as you sit down. It's automatic, it's charged as a cover (often a few hundred yen each), and it's rarely vegan.
- [Same oil, same grill (同じ油)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/shared-oil): Small kitchens share everything. A vegetable dish can be perfectly vegan on paper and still be cooked next to fish or meat.
- [Miso soup (味噌汁)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/miso-soup): Miso paste is made from soybeans. The soup almost never is just miso.
- [Bread and pastries (パン)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/bread): Japanese bread is soft for a reason: most of it contains milk, butter or egg. Bakery items usually have no label at all.
- [Temple cuisine (精進料理)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/shojin): Buddhist temple cooking leaves out meat and fish. It's often the easiest fully plant-based meal in Japan.
- [What a label must tell you (表示義務)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/allergen-rules): Japan has two allergen lists: 9 that labels must name, and 20 more that makers are only encouraged to name. It's a system for allergies, not a vegan list.
- [The word “allergy” (アレルギー)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/allergy): Every Japanese kitchen takes アレルギー (allergy) seriously. It's a useful word for you too, used the right way.
- [When there's no label (表示なし)](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/no-label): Labels are required on packaged food. A lot of what you'll eat isn't packaged.

## FAQ: vegan in Japan

### Is dashi vegan?
Usually not. Plain だし (dashi) in Japan is most often made with bonito (かつお) or dried sardines. Kelp (昆布) and shiitake (椎茸) dashi are plant-based, so ask what it's made from: だしは何ですか？ (dashi wa nan desu ka?). (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/dashi)

### Is miso soup vegan in Japan?
Almost never. The miso paste is soybeans, but the soup is made on a dashi base, usually fish. Ask for your set meal without it, or ask whether the dashi is kelp only. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/miso-soup)

### Is soy sauce vegan?
Yes, regular soy sauce (醤油) is soybeans, wheat and salt. Watch out for だし醤油 (dashi soy sauce) and noodle sauces (めんつゆ), which usually contain bonito. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/mentsuyu)

### Is sushi vegan?
Some is. Cucumber rolls (かっぱ巻き, kappa-maki) are usually vegan: they're named after us kappas, who love cucumber. Inari pouches are often simmered in a broth with bonito, and tamago is egg. Sushi rice is seasoned with vinegar, sugar and salt; some shops add kelp, so ask if you're unsure. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/aburaage)

### Is ramen vegan in Japan?
Not by default: most broths are pork, chicken or fish, and some noodles contain egg. Look for shops with a dedicated vegan ramen, and ask whether the broth is cooked in its own pot. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/shared-oil)

### What can I eat at a konbini as a vegan?
Read the label. Good signs: 動物性原材料不使用 (no animal ingredients), 植物性 (plant-derived), soy milk, plain tofu, fruit and nuts. Skip anything with 肉, エキス, だし, 乳成分 or 卵. Kelp or plum onigiri can work, but check the list for かつお. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words)

### How do I say “I'm vegan” in Japanese?
ヴィーガンです (viigan desu). Then name what you don't eat: 肉、魚、だし、卵、乳製品、はちみつは食べません (niku, sakana, dashi, tamago, nyuseihin, hachimitsu wa tabemasen). (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/vegan)

### Does “vegetarian” mean vegan in Japan?
No. ベジタリアン often just means no meat: fish stock, egg and dairy can still be in the dish. Name the ingredients you avoid instead. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/vegetarian)

### What is otoshi?
A small starter served automatically in many izakaya and charged as a cover. It's often not vegan: ask when you sit down whether it can be made vegan. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/otoshi)

### Is Japanese bread vegan?
Rarely. Most soft bread contains milk, butter or egg, and bakery items often have no label. Crusty “hard” breads are simpler, but ask anyway. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/bread)

### Are Japanese allergen labels enough to check if food is vegan?
No. Only 9 allergens must be listed, including egg, milk, shrimp and crab. Meat, fish and gelatine are only recommended, and bonito, sardines and honey aren't on any list. Read the whole ingredient list. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/heads-up/allergen-rules)

### Is mirin vegan?
Real mirin (本みりん) is made from rice and is vegan. Cheaper mirin-style seasonings (みりん風調味料) and cooking sake (料理酒) can have other things added: read the list. (More: https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/arrival-pack/words/mirin-sake)

## Places
- [Map of Tokyo's 23 wards](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map): the map of our favourite vegan restaurants in Tokyo is coming soon.

### Vegan places we love, by area (pixel map, street by street)
- [Vegan food around East Tokyo](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/east-tokyo): Guruatsu, Vegan Gyoza, Shochikuen Cafe, Marugoto Vegan Dining Asakusa, Injoy 悦納, Fucha Bon, Vegan Cafe PQ's, Sital, T's Tantan Ueno, Sasaya Cafe, T's Tantan Tokyo Station, Guruatsu Stand, Mos Burger Asakusa, Kyushu Jangara Akihabara, ovgo Baker Edo St.
- [Vegan food around Azabujuban](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/azabujuban): Bio c' Bon Azabujuban, Falafel Brothers Roppongi
- [Vegan food around Shimokitazawa](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/shimokitazawa): Alicia, Chabuzen
- [Vegan food around Shibuya](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/shibuya): Vegan Izakaya Masaka, Falafel Brothers Shibuya PARCO
- [Vegan food around Ikebukuro](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/ikebukuro): T's Tantan Ikebukuro, Wakuwaku Hiroba Sunshine City
- [Vegan food around Higashi-Ginza](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/higashi-ginza): KOMEDA is □, Chaya Macrobiotic Shiodome
- [Vegan food around Mt. Takao](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/mt-takao): Takaosansumika
- [Vegan food around Kunitachi](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/kunitachi): Chien-Fu
- [Vegan food around Tachikawa](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/tachikawa): Flowers Bake & Ice Cream
- [Vegan food around Komagome](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/komagome): Organic Bar Nourish
- [Vegan food around Kawaguchi](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/map/kawaguchi): 1110 Cafe/Bakery

## Optional
- [Contact](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/contact)
- [Privacy policy](https://dearvegantraveller.neoyume.com/privacy)